Month: January 2020

From Quartzsite and the environs

With me being hobbled by my hand, we haven’t been doing a lot. Then again, beautiful sunny skies and temps near 70 (or more) have made doing nothing very enjoyable! There has been a lot of sitting in the sun during the day and sitting around a campfire at night.

We did go to Cibola National Wildlife Refuge on Tuesday. We took a slow but scenic route through the Yuma Proving Grounds on a gravel road that wandered through beautiful country.

YPG is a wildlife sanctuary and desert plant refuge in the barrier areas.
Lots of green here plus a (Afghanistan?) “village”
Of course I don’t recommend going off the main road!
Cibola NWR attracts a lot of birds to its ponds
There were huge numbers of sandhill cranes too
This guy decided to show off
Oh, and this style of saguaro was plentiful

Click on this link to hear the birds in a video.

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Saturday our group had a potluck meal. As usual my Dutch oven green chili chicken enchiladas were a hit, but there was a lot of other good food too.

Sunday we took a trip to the Desert Bar again, a totally off grid bar and music venue that is only open 12-6 on Saturday and Sunday during the winter. Amazingly cool place.

The last 5 miles are on a very rough dirt toad
The last 5 miles are on a very rough dirt and gravel road
The roads in the area originally led to mines
A number of old dead cars along the road
It isn’t a “real” church, but you can have weddings there
A mandatory view of the women’s toilets built into the hill
View looking out from the women’s toilets
Totally self-contained and off grid but with a 1000 people means lots of solar

We have decided to stay in Q until we head to Yuma on 3 February. I am sure I will have at least one more post from here. Hopefully the cell service improves with thousands of people leaving.

Excitement in Quartzsite

We left the Van Horne RV Park (and their nice little cafe), and we spent Monday night in Willcox, AZ at the KOA. Nice campground with big roomy sites and very little road noise. They had a cafe too, but it was very mediocre. It was particularly disappointing after the enjoyable experience at Van Horne.

I was starting to get antsy about getting to Quartzsite, so we were up early Tuesday to go to Destiny RV Resort in Goodyear, AZ (Phoenix suburb). Nice place, but complicated to get in and out of. Most of the sites are seasonal or year around, but it was definitely one of the more upscale places we have been. There were orange trees all through the campground!


Since we were going to be dry camping for the next few weeks, we made sure to do our shopping, laundry, and clean out the tanks. We really took our time on Wednesday morning, and we didn’t leave until nearly 11:00. We did make it to Quartzsite though.

On Thursday we had Countryside Interiors come install our new RV furniture!

A smaller sofa (full-sized air bed sleeper) plus two lovely electric recliners! The color is a very light beige, not the white that shows in the pictures, and the upholstery is super soft, a better grade than the original. The quilts brighten it up nicely too. We will eventually get a small table made to fit between the chairs. Countryside took away the old furniture, and they said someone was sure to take it so it wouldn’t have to go to the landfill.

I was enjoying my furniture so much that I wasn’t concentrating as I left the coach on Thursday afternoon, so I fell down the stairs! It was a hard and painful fall, and I cut my hand badly on the metal somehow. I was bleeding mightily, and I could see immediately that I was going to need stitches in my hand. I just sat on the ground and cried a few seconds before Kevin helped me up. We wrapped up my hand, put a bandaid on the bloodiest of my scrapes, changed my clothes (I had spilled the drink I was carrying), and took off for the medical clinic in town. They told me they didn’t do stitches and sent me off to Parker’s Emergency Room. I was getting shaky as the adrenaline wore off, and my hand and elbow hurt like crazy. Luckily they got me in quickly. The doctor was worried about my elbow and knee since both were very sore, and he had the do a couple of X-rays. Luckily nothing broken and I didn’t hit my head or lose consciousness. My hand took a bunch of stitches though. They gave me a tetanus shot, wrapped up my hand, cleaned up the rest of the scrapes, and send me back. Still hurt like crazy. I get the stitches out in 7 days. Luckily the new chairs recliner so much as to almost be a bed, so I slept there. I was worried I would bump my hand or knee or elbow in the bed!

To put it mildly I wasn’t feeling good on Friday so we just hung around the motorhome. A lot more people joined the group we are with (RVForum.net) on Thursday and Friday, and more are still arriving. We had an enjoyable evening around the fire with friends even though it was a bit cold. I was feeling a bit better, so we had fresh green beans with onion and bacon (made in the Instant Pot), gold potatoes with onion and peppers, and roast turkey we had frozen from Thanksgiving. Yum, and I don’t have to do any dishes until after the stitches come out!

Today was the first day of the big RV show in Quartzsite, and Kevin braved the crowds to talk to the BlueOx people about refurbishing our tow bars. They have a fixed price for routine maintenance, and we dropped off the tow bars with them this afternoon. The place was crazy busy. I can’t ride my bike right now because of my hand, so I may not go until much later in the week. Kevin did pick us up a funnel cake!

Big Bend completion

I had great intentions of posting the day after my last post, but the reception was just too bad. Here is the entire Big Bend completion, all in one fell swoop!

We stayed 3 nights at Stillwell store campground. We then moved to the NPS campground at Rio Grande Village. I had carefully checked the campground size, and the site was plenty long for us. However there were lots of overhanging trees and we couldn’t get in! The lovely camp host moved us to an overflow site that was very nice. We stayed there 3 nights too. During the week, we drove the dirt road to Dagger Flats, home to a large number of Giant Dagger Yuccas. They were impressive in winter, and they must have been amazing when they bloomed. The flower stalks can be 70 pounds!

Plants 10-15’ tall, flower stalks another 4-6’.

We also drove to the Chisos Basin twice, both times to eat in the lodge restaurant. The lodge isn’t one of the classic NPS ones, but the food was quite good. Of course it is the only place to eat in the park, so I am glad it was good. The views are lovely, and the Basin is up high in the mountains for a totally different experience than down in the flats.

You don’t expect colorful oak trees in the southern Texas desert!
The Chisos Basin is surrounded by spiky peaks
Lots more vegetation in the Basin
Looking through a gap to the valley. Sorry for the trash bins.

The third part of the park is the Rio Grande River area. The mountains on the Mexican side were tremendous. Our campground was a couple of miles from the river directly, and maybe 5 miles by road. There is an official Border Patrol crossing its you want to go across the river in a boat, but we passed. The Rio Grande also had some hot springs right on the bank. It had been a popular attraction, and there were a lot of relics left.

Lots of remnants from when the hot springs were a big draw
Palm trees always mean someone had a commercial establishment. This is the Hot Springs store.
Astonishingly we found a tree felled by a beaver someone ago
The Rio Grande isn’t very big this time of year, but the reeds show where it is during peak flow
The hot springs have pools with reclining backs built in
A very impressive colony of palms protected some picnic tables

The other big advantage desert mountains have is the quality of the light at dusk.

Mexico from the campground
Just driving one of the backcountry roads and saw a hawk

We saw only one javalina this trip, but we saw lots and lots of roadrunners! They are obviously experienced camp robbers, but they found us uncooperative. One walked up fewer than 3 feet away from me! We also had a resident coyote in the campground that cruised the dumpster hoping someone was messy. He was always disappointed while we were there.

We left the National Park today, and we took a slow road west through Big Bend Ranch State Park. This place had incredible scenery! It also was very empty past the entry point. Most people use the road we were on for river access since it parallels the Rio Grand closely. There just isn’t much river running in mid January though! It was lucky for me we had such limited traffic because the roads were narrow, steep, and winding. With no one behind me (only 3 cats passed me in 25-30 miles) I could slow down and enjoy the ride and the view. The most challenging section was a 15% (yes, 15%) grade both up and down. The diesel motorhome took it slowly and steadily, 15 mph up and 12 mph down. I doubt I ever break that grade record.

We now are spending the night at Van Horn RV Park where we stayed last year. They have a cute little restaurant with good food, so no cooking for us tonight.

Big Bend Day 1

We spent Sunday night at the Abilene KOA, and we made it to Stillwell Store and Campground by early afternoon Monday. The campgrounds d where we are is just a huge gravel area, but there is power and water plus big sites. For $25 I won’t complain!

This will be a somewhat disjointed post since we have pretty bad WiFi at the Visitor Center, and no data on the phone at all most of the time. Tuesday we did a lot of driving – into the park on the main drive, then headed west to Maverick Junction  and the dirt Old Maverick Road, the back to hard surface road to Sana’a Elena Canyon, Castolon, and back to the entrance road. It was a long day.

I hadn’t been to Big Bend since my senior year in college, so I had no memory of the scenery. It is Chihuahuan  desert, different from the Mohave, Sonoran, and Great Basin deserts I am familiar with. Nice mountains. Lots of volcanic rock intermixed with old sedimentary rock.

Lots of volcanic domes
The Chisos Mountains are the major backdrop.
It was very hazy

Layers of mountains

The park service has left more signs of humans here than in any other park I have visited.

This was the jacal (home) of Gilberto Luna. He farmed here for many, many years.
Look this one up
Some metallic remnants too
Sutliff ranch house
Below Castolon. Home to a cotton rancher.
Engine used for a cotton gin
Aftermath of May’s wildfire
Homer Wilson ranch house. The circular wooden corral is still there.
Cerritos Castellan
Aptly named Mules Ears

We saw a lot of roadrunners, but only one cooperated for a (poor) picture.

Yes, that is a roadrunner

We also saw a few mule deer. This one was hanging out less than a mile from the Panther Junction Visitor Center.

There were actually three in this group.

I will post day 2 tomorrow since we are still on it!

And we are traveling again!

Between Christmas and the New Year we cleaned the house, put up the Christmas decorations, and tried not to bring too much “stuff”. We left Iowa on New Year’s Day, headed to Yukon, OK to pick up the coach. Everything we well. The motorhome refrigerator worked just fine, and the “penny on a cup of ice” was still on top of the ice when we got there. I do love solar! We spent the evening setting up in a rather boring campground (Mustang Run in Yukon) and putting away all the stuff we brought with us. We spent the next few days just stocking the refrigerator, trying to remember how everything worked (how could we have forgotten so much in 7 weeks?), seeing family, and doing some preventative maintenance. I didn’t take a picture of the campground because it was so boring. Nice long, flat spots with a picnic table, but no trees, no playground, and right next to busy I-40. The traffic was so loud and so continuous that it actually became white noise and didn’t bother us at all trying to sleep. It was convenient for what we needed though, so we will probably stay here again if needed.

Today we drove to Abilene, TX, spending the night in the KOA. It is actually fairly nice. It is next to the highway, but there are enough barriers that the noise isn’t bothersome at all. The campground has lots of long term residents, probably associated with the local oil industry based on the trucks parked in front of the trailers and fifth wheels. Housing is a real issue in the oil fields, and the ones living here are definitely luckier than many. The campground even has some trees and good spacing between the sites.

Long sites plus the mistletoe-garnished trees

We did a huge grocery shopping trip today since we are headed to the Big Bend area tomorrow. We have 350 miles to get to Stillwell Store and RV Park on the east side of Big Bend National Park. We will stay there until we head to our park reservation later in the week. I don’t know when I will have data service, but I will have pictures ready for when I do.