Around Page, AZ

We started out staying in Page, AZ in the yard of a friend. Nice way to handle the cold weather! We officially here for a native heritage dinner theater, but we took a scenic drive too.

The Vermillion Cliffs National Monument was fabulous! They are the second “step” in the Grand Staircase of the Colorado Plateau in northern Arizona and southern Utah. I am just going to post a bunch of pictures I took with my camera, though none of them really represent the glorious red color of the cliffs.

Look past the shadow
More cliffs
Some monuments were there too
Getting near the Colorado River
Colorado River at Lee’s Ferry
Cool mushrooms

House made from a mushroom
And back to the Staircase

We eventually had to climb out of the Colorado River valley, and we were able to get a different hope of view – SNOW!

Near North Rim of the Grand Canyon

When we made it back from our 4+ hour trip, we went to Red Heritage Dinner Theater. My friend in Page had recommended it, and we thought it would be a nice change from all our time out in the boondocks. I don’t know exactly what I was expecting, but this was quite a bit different. First we got decent Indian tacos (fry bread with a meat – multiple choices- cheese, salsa, sour cream, lettuce, tomato) plus a light pudding dessert. Then we had an interesting cultural discussion about weaving in the Navajo tradition. The presenter, an older woman, described the process from shearing through spinning and dyeing while his granddaughter worked on a rug. The background of some of the patterns was discussed too. As a person who loves textiles, I found it very interesting!

Cultural presentation about weaving

The main entertainment began with an Indian flute player who played on both a single flute and a double flute I have never seen before! It was two joined flutes with a single mouthpiece. Fascinating. Then there was a drum set with four drummers and songs. After that was a dance exhibition with a variety of dance types and dancers. What an athletic group the dancers are! The energy expended was impressive.

Among all the fun things we have done, I have also finally finished my kid quilt for the FMCA rally. I always like to have at least one kid-friendly quilt to donate. This one was fun! I cut up bunches of scraps, many from masks I made in the last couple of years. Using the Accuquilt, it doesn’t take long, and I just randomly sewed them together. The piecing was enjoyably mindless, and I adore how much texture the quilting added. I used just a basic meander stitch, something I can do fairly easily on my Bernina 830 in the motorhome.

Finished triangle scrap quilt

We ended up staying in Page an extra day due to snow. We had 2-3” in Page proper, and the surrounding areas on the way to Flagstaff got even more. When we were ready to leave on Thursday, Kevin had to break off an inch of ice from our big slide topper! It had pooled on the fabric, then froze overnight. What a mess! The road to Quartzsite, our destination, was clear, though there was significant snow around Flagstaff. We stopped at Hi Jolly, and we picked up pizza from Silly Al’s, a great spot. I then collapsed since I drove way longer without a break than I should.

We also took a trip to Yuma to pick up the glasses we ordered a month ago! Mine are Varilux progressives with polarizing and tint, while Kevin got just regular Varilux lenses. It was hundreds less than the optometric shop at home!

We are now at a rally with the Diesel RV FMCA chapter in Tacna, AZ about 30 miles from Yuma. Luckily I checked this place out only to find it doesn’t allow washing machines! This was definitely an issue since we had been boondocking for well over a week. We ended up getting water, turning on the generator, and doing 3 loads before going to the rally. We will still need to do another load while at the FMCA convention because I don’t have enough short sleeved shirts for this hot weather. It was 87 degrees here today!

Go north young (wo)man!

We left Overton, NV and headed north. The weather was a bit cold and snowy on both alternatives, and the northern route was a lot less driving. We chose to spend 2 nights at the Kaibab Paiute Tribal RV Park at Pipe Spring National Monument. Full hookups, reasonable price, and big roomy sites. The drive her was lovely, heading up through St. George, UT and Hurricane, UT, just south of Zion National Park. We are in an area of high red mesas, and it is gorgeous! Normally I wouldn’t post this quickly after my last post, but we took an enjoyable drive along the Smithsonian Butte Backcountry Scenic Byway. The northern end is in Zion National Park, but the road was very muddy, and we didn’t make it all the way. We did enjoy what we drove though.

Getting there means driving through the former FLDS towns of Colorado City, AZ and Hildale, UT. We have been through them a number of years ago, and they were really depressing. Their “prophet” was sitting in jail for child molestation, and they were really rudderless. A trust was running the towns under the auspices of the state governments and a judge. The difference now is significant! Lots of new businesses, new housing, lots of non-FLDS folks walking around. It still has areas of decaying homes and yards overrun with trash and weeds, but there were fewer than the last time we came through when we visited Pipe Springs for the first time.

Once we were on the Byway, the views just opened up.

The bluffs and mesas are glorious
Dramatic clouds
The sky
Cloud shapes on the mountains

The entire area was getting pop up snow or rain showers, depending on elevation. I think this captures the true definition of a forecast for “partly cloudy with scattered showers.”

Along the valley coming back

Tomorrow we are going to Page, AZ, staying with friends at their rural spot. Undoubtably there will be more sightseeing and more pictures then.

Death Valley and the Amargosa Valley

We left Hi Jolly Tuesday morning. It was still windy, but we were hoping we could make it the relatively short distance to Death Valley without being blown off the roads. We got just outside of Needles, and the highway signs were telling us “High Profile Vehicles Not Recommended.” We ended up stopping at the Needles KOA after a short trip of just under 100 miles. It is actually a nice place, and we have stayed there a number of times before. Luckily the wind died down some that night, and we made it to Death Valley and Sunset campground comfortably. We did have to cross some mountain passes on the way, and they were snowy. Luckily the snow had stopped, the roads plowed, and brine had been applied to them, so it was easy traveling. I don’t like brine on the motorhome though! We couldn’t find any place to wash the rig, so we just had to leave it on until we left.

We have stayed at Death Valley so often that I don’t take nearly as many pictures as I should. We got our favorite site – right on the eastern edge of the campground with no one between us and the mountains! It was windy and cloudy much of the time, so pictures weren’t that great anyway. I did get a couple of lovely sunrise pictures, taken from the steps of the motorhome.

View from our campsite in daylight

We spent most of our time at the Dark Sky Festival. As usual they had great speakers from NASA, Goddard Space Center, Jet Propulsion Laboratory, James Webb Space Telescope, and others. There were photography sessions and astronomy sessions too. We did get one trip into Pahrump for supplies, and it allowed us to eat at Chat Thai, a great little place we try to get to every time we are in town. Kevin tried to get some pictures at night, but clouds came in all nights but one. Sigh.

We took one long trip to the Ubehebe Crater, a steam crater resulting from ground water being instantly vaporized by a magma pipe only 2000 years ago. If you look really carefully you can see four tiny dots of people who walked down to the bottom. It gives an impressive sense of scale.

Looking into the crater

After the fun of the Festival, we headed to the Longstreet Casino in Amargosa Valley, just 7 miles from Death Valley Junction, so we could relax with power, dump tanks, and do laundry. What a nice place! We spent Wednesday and Thursday nights here, and we will never stay in Pahrump again! The sites were all gravel, but they were roomy and they had planted a native tree between campsites. There is even a swimming pool and petting zoo! We had dinner (so-so) and breakfast (better) at the restaurant. While we were at Longstreet we took a side trip to Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge. It is always a surprise to find so many springs in the middle of the desert! It is truly a tiny hidden oasis of springs, ponds, and a small reservoir.

A cabin marked simply “Archeology project.”
Crystal Springs

Jack Longstreet was the person the casino was named after. He was one of the classic western folks – part outlaw, part miner, part rancher. He hid out in a cabin he partially dug out of the soft rock in the refuge. It was well hidden.

Boardwalk to Longstreet Cabin
Longstreet cabin
The cabin was dug into the soft rock

The springs and ponds are the real story though.

Lovely color to the water
Obviously very clear too

The pupfish are very small but very blue. Look carefully to see them.

Some of the famous pupfish (though not the Devil’s Hole pupfish.)
Green exists even in a drought.

The land was developed as a ranch, and they bulldozed sand dunes and pumped water causing significant habitat degradation. The ranch was sold to Las Vegas property developers who wanted to build a few thousand homes here! Luckily the Nature Conservancy was able to purchase the land and transfer title to the National Fish and Wildlife Service. The reservoir below is one of the remnants of the ranch. The dam is in poor shape though, and the reservoir is kept pretty low. The tiny black dot bottom left is a duck.

The old ranch reservoir. See the duck?

We left the Casino and are now spending two nights at a Boondockers Welcome location in the Moapa Valley northeast a bit from Las Vegas. Nice guy, but the winds have been so bad! My allergies are flaring up miserably, I am coughing my lungs out, and I am mostly hiding in the motorhome with the HEPA filter running. If it doesn’t clear up in a couple of days, I will have to resort to the steroids I have stashed.

We had lunch today in Overton, NV at the Inside Scoop, a combination sandwich shop and ice cream store. Look at my sandwich!  Actually this is the half I took home. The sandwich was massive and tasted delicious for both lunch and dinner!

Club Sandwich from Inside Scoop

We are still trying to figure out how to get to Page. The short way is through southern Utah, but it is looking cold and snowy along part of it. The other way is dropping south towards Kingman and Seligman, but it is a lot farther, and there is some bad weather there too. We will decide tomorrow.