I like the desert, but the desert doesn’t like me

We are now in Lone Pine, CA, about 100 miles west of Death Valley at the Boulder Creek RV Resort. It is a nice place though the road noise is more than I like. They even have a fenced dog park for Lexi! We will stay here until Sunday when we head to Topock, AZ.

Anyone who reads this knows I like deserts. I like the rocks, the mountains, the tough plants, the hardy animals. I like the history, the settlements, the mines. However I think I can say the desert doesn’t like me! As we left Death Valley I wasn’t feeling great. I thought I had a bit of a cold, but that was all. Nope, another full case of sinusitis. I couldn’t breath through my nose, sounded like I was coughing my lungs out, super sore throat, felt like a truck hit me – all the good stuff. I had the same thing happen to me last year, and I let it get too far along before I treated it correctly. This time I started with the decongestant, generic Mucinex, and cough medicine right away. I did some Dr. Google work and discovered dry environments contribute to sinusitis. I convinced sweet Kevin to drive the hour and a half to Ridgecrest, CA because they had a solution – basically a personal humidifier. It is actually called a “Personal Steam Inhaler”, and I have one at home too. I started using it on the drive home since it is a very low draw electrical item. I then used it every couple of hours, and the nastiness is much better! I used it once in the middle of the night, and as soon as I got up this morning. I may survive! Here is an advertising picture.

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Silly looking thing, but I am going to start using it 3 – 4 times a day on our desert trips.

I was able to see a few things before retreating to a recliner. We took the Mt. Whitney Portal Road on Monday after we got here. I had never seen the Sierra Nevadas east side, and it was stunning!

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Waterfall at the Whitney Portal. Lots of ice showing.
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The mountains are just sharp granite peaks.
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Saw this buck and his harem on the way up.

Yesterday we went to Bishop and took the Movie Road in the Alabama Hills. The rocks were amazing! The photos aren’t very good since it was late in the day.

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Much better than Garden of the Gods in Colorado Springs!

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It is a seriously tortured landscape. The signs said the torturing had been chemical rather than weather. The rocks pop up in a wide, multi-mile long stretch. Seriously cool.

Today we went to the Museum of Western Film History in Lone Pine. I didn’t have very high expectations for a museum in such a small town, but it was outstanding. This is a serious, world class place. It turns out literally hundreds of movies, mostly westerns, have been filmed in the area. An interesting thing I learned: the jawas in some Star Wars shots were first graders from Death Valley Elementary School, and the scenes were shot in the area. How did I learn this? One of the women tending the register was the first grade teacher who set things up when she hear of the need for a cast of extras that were 42 inches tall. They had some cute pictures of the kids.

As we drove home from the museum I took this nice shot of the Sierras just touched with snow. Lovely.

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Ten days at Death Valley National Park

Warning: this will be long. I have a week and a half to cover. I couldn’t post in segments because the data service was too poor.

I love Death Valley. That may sound odd to those of you who think only soft landscapes with trees are beautiful, but I really do love the place. At Death Valley (and many other desert parks) you can see the real bones of the land unobscured by soil and vegetation. The colors are amazing – everything from the crystal white of the salt pan to creams, yellows, golds, reds, browns, and the blacks of the lava.

We went to the Death Valley 49ers Encampment again, 3 – 13 November. The 49ers emphasize history, western music, and fun, and the Encampment is their big meeting of the year. This year was challenging. Xanterra, the owner of the Furnace Creek resort where Encampment is held, is remodeling the entire resort. It was a disaster of a construction zone requiring all kinds of adjusting of dates and locations. Luckily the NPS crew worked extraordinary hard to accommodate us. The National HR crew of NPS identified issues with the process for hiring seasonal custodial staff, and there were no custodians for the period of the Encampment! The big campground, Sunset, was closed because there was no one to clean the bathrooms and pick up trash, something rather important  for 350-400 RVers. The park rearranged staff assignments, worked a bunch of overtime, and allowed the campground to open specifically for the Encampment. There was administrative office staff cleaning toilets! I can’t say enough about how great they were.

We arrived on Friday at 12:30 after the campground opened at 12:00. As we came in we saw some mountai sheep right off the road, moving away from Furnace Creek.

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As usual, I only got the back end of the sheep!

There were already probably 100 units setting up when we got to the campground. We got a prime spot at the end of a row, looking east. Most of the campers there during the week were 49ers and stayed for the duration, but there were some regular vacationers who were probably quite surprised at the crowds.

Monday we were able to take a four wheel drive trip to Lippincot Mine off the Saline Valley road. We found a wonderful forest of Joshua Trees.

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These were among the best Joshua Trees I have ever seen. We then continued to the Lippincot Mine over a Grade 3 road, meaning a moderate 4×4 road requiring careful driving and a locking 4 low. I called it a goat track! Scary. It was more challenging for us because we had a big 3/4 ton quad cab pickup truck, not a skinny jeep. We ended up with only some minor dents in the running boards, so it was ok.

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Lots of lava and wide open views across the Saline Valley.

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It really was a goat track! And this was before it got really bad.

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The mine is actually in good shape. You could walk in a short way though I didn’t. Lots of other artifacts around too.

On the way back we drove by The Racetrack, home of the famous moving rocks. I didn’t take any pictures. We did stop at Ubehebe Crater, the remnant of a volcanic eruption only a few hundred years ago. Water got to a hot spot and resulted in a massive explosion. It was late in the day so the shadows were extensive, but you can get the idea.

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The next day we did Titus Canyon, a relatively mild road the needed high clearance vehicles and a good 4 low. We saw some burros just before the road officially began, but they were too far away for a good picture.

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This is a good example of some of the colors in the mountains. You can see the Titus Canyon road in the first picture.

The 49ers do a historical costume contest. Here are the contestants.

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There was also a wagon train that came in after driving the 100 miles from Pahrump to Furnace Creek by way of Shoshone. They have been doing this for 51years, which I think is amazing. It is a big deal with the Highway Patorl blocking traffic as they come down the road. I have videos, but they won’t upload for some reason. There were 7or 8 wagons with everyone in period dress. They really live out of the wagons during the trip, some pulled by horses and some pulled by miles. There was also a cute little gig pulled by miniature horses! There is also a man who comes every year with wagons and Belgian draft horses. He gives free rides around the camping area. If you want to leave “carrot money” you can do so, but it isn’t required. Here is one of the wagons and two of the horses on the last day.

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Another 49er standard is the historical character reenactor. This year the character was Arnold Johnson, the man who built Scotty’s Castle in the park. It was fascinating.

There are lots of other things to do in Death Valley. We spent time at the music offerings in the evenings, drove some of the wonderful gravel and dirt roads in the park, and generally enjoyed ourselves tremendously.

On Sunday morning we got up early to head to Zabriskie Point, one of the classic photo spots. Sadly it was overcast and the pictures aren’t sharp. You can get at least a little feel for the striations and colors in the mountains though.

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Oh, and do you want to know why they call the campground “Sunset”? Here is a good reason:

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Summary: We had a wonderful time, saw gorgeous scenery and lots of animals (burros, wild horses, mountain sheep). I highly recommend the trip, at least in the fall and winter. We are now in a private campground in Lone Pine, CA in the Owens Valley for the next week – water, electricity, sewer, and WiFi! The Sierra Nevadas are immediately west of us, so expect a post about this area soon.

 

Gold country living history, trains, and heading home

On 19 May (Friday) we went to Columbia State Park for a living history festival called “Columbia Diggins 1852”. It turns out the entire state park is a living history location. It was great fun. There were hotels, restaurants, homes, stores, etc. that were from the early gold rush days – blocks and blocks of them. There was even a stagecoach ride that I had to take, just because. The stage was “held up” by a masked bandit, causing the children on the stage enormous amounts of fun.

Me in front of the hotel
Stagecoach ride was fun
Lots of kids on school trips

The “Diggins” was a tent city with lots of costumed docents teaching (mostly children) how to do laundry in a wash tub, how to pan for gold, how to use a sluice and a rocker for gold, how to bake in a wood fired brick/stone oven, and other fun things.

We bought some food and some very small presents for the granddaughters.

On Saturday we went to Jamestown and their 1897 Railroad Park. This is another California State Historic Park. There is a working oil fueled steam train and cars that you can take on a short excursion. Of course we did it. The train only runs on Saturday’s and Sundays, and the entire trip took 45 minutes. It was well worth the $15 per person cost.

The only known woman steam engineer was running our train

Saturday night was pizza at the Pizza Factory in Groveland with the remaining rally attendees. The pizza was very good, and I highly recommend the place. No atmosphere but good food.

We decided to do most of the cleaning and packing on Saturday so we could get an easy start home on Sunday. It worked; we were out of the campground by 8:00. The original plan was to find a Forest Service campground somewhere near Lake Tahoe or Reno, but the Tahoe area was too crowded for us. It was a beautiful lake, but not worth the number of people. We decided to just head home in two days instead of our planned three, so we ended up in Winnemucca, NV again. This time we stayed at the KOA which is actually quite nice. Real cable TV so I can watch the news is very pleasant. The internet isn’t very good from the campground, but I am running great on my Verizon hot spot. Since we have a full hookup site we can get all the tanks dumped and cleaned before heading home. I really like being able to do that on the last night of a trip. There is some road noise from I-80, but I expect much of that to die down later tonight. We have the windows and doors open right now, cooling off in the lovely evening air. Home tomorrow!

Driving and biking in the Yosemite area

Yesterday we took a drive through some very scenic country. We headed to the park and first visited Hetch Hetchy valley. The lake is below its high water bathtub mark, but not by much.

We then continued on highway 120 to highway 140 to Mariposa then back to the RV park via highway 49. Highway 49 is a very narrow and windy road not recommended for motorhomes or trailers over 30′. Yup, it was great! We didn’t take any pictures, but the country was very nice. Lots of mining history there, and there were a number of old mines we could see pieces of.

Today we tried to bicycle in the park. We left at 7:00 to get there before the crowds, and we did get a good parking place. Turns out we didn’t do much biking though. The detours they had in place for road construction in the valley impacted the bike trails too, and we weren’t crazy enough to ride on the over crowded narrow roads. We only got in 5.7 miles, but we enjoyed what we had. We spent quite a bit of time at the museum by the Visitor’s Center. There was an interpretive ranger playing Native American flutes that set the environment for the wonderful display of baskets woven by the native Miwoks. There is also a recreated Miwok village just outside the museum with a very good set of interpretive signs. After the museum we just wandered around. I got some more nice waterfall shots.

After the ride, we came back to the campground. Kevin took a nice nap while I enjoyed just sitting outside and relaxing. It has finally warmed up, and the skies were very blue as you can see from the pictures. Nice change! I also cleaned up the sewing I did on the two quilts I am working on. All the initial sewing is done, but I need to press the strip sets before subcutting the blocks. I can’t seem to find an ironing mat to buy, so I will probably just finish them at home. We ended the evening with a “last night” dinner with the rally attendees. I put that in quotes because the rally continues through Saturday night, but people are starting to leave a bit early. Therefore the dinner was tonight. The little restaurant we ate at was so-so. Standard small town fare, not too bad but not too good either (my salmon was overcooked). Oh well, we go for the company not the food.

Tomorrow is a living history day at Columbia, CA. It is called Diggings 1852 and supposedly has >150 reenactors in a tent city from 1852, the height of the local gold rush. I think it will be fun.

Yosemite and housekeeping

We arrived Sunday at Yosemite Pines RV Resort in Groveland, just off Highway 120 near the west entrance to Yosemite. It is ok. Definitely nothing to write home about, but adequate for visiting Yosemite. We had a nice Happy Hour with the other RV Forum rally attendees. Monday was my first time at Yosemite, and all I can say is “Wow!” It is truly spectacular. Since the winter was so wet, the waterfalls are roaring. Even more than the waterfalls, I just loved the valley itself – green, broad, a river rolling with whitewater, and surrounded by granite cliffs. Here are some of the obligatory photos.

We actually didn’t stay too long or do any walking. A light mist turned to a dreary cold rain, and we did not have adequate gear. We visited the park headquarters, had lunch in the lodge bar, and took the shuttle bus round trip through the stops. Back in camp we warmed up and dried off, then some of us went to the oldest saloon in California, the Iron Door. Fun local place, and they had a good local dark beer.

Tuesday we did housekeeping chores. After a week or so on the road we needed to do laundry. We also went to the little local museum in Groveland (quite nice) and had lunch at a local bakery. Happy Hour again with the rally folks, then off to the Iron Door saloon again for a beer and onion rings. I also did some sewing on a quilt for Quilts for Kids. It was a fairly productive day for just getting some things done.

Sonoma county excitement

After our fun trip to San Francisco we mostly relaxed on Friday. We did visit a couple of wineries (Rodney Strong and Kendall-Jackson). Rodney Strong was nice, but K-J was nothing to write home about. We just tried them to see how big wineries compared to smaller ones. Friday night was absolutely nuts at the campground. I have never seen so many children, most of them having a good time. Every site was filled including the numerous cabins, and the overflow parking was overflowing. We went for dinner with friends to Nick’s, a restaurant on Nick’s Cove southwest 20 minutes from Petaluma. It was a wonderful experience with good food, lovely wine, and good conversation.

It was still crazy at the campground on Saturday, but we got up fairly early to do some sightseeing. We first visited the Armstrong Redwoods, a spot recommended by friends. The weather was windy and damp discouraging walks. We did get to see redwoods though! There is no way I can take a picture that shows how big they are, but here are a couple of attempts.

We also went to the coast to drive part of highway 1. This is a road we could never do with the trailer since it is narrow and windy. We stopped at a number of beaches until we found real excitement at Duncan’s Cove (part of Sonoma State Beach). A pickup had driven over the edge of the cliff and fallen/rolled about 100′ to the shore. By the time we got there, the scene was fully in hand with multiple EMTs, sheriffs, park patrol, and two helicopters. One ended up lifting the injured driver out and the other did the airlift to the hospital. I was amazed the driver was alive, but the local paper said he was expected to survive. Lots of cool pictures watching the experts stabilize and then transport the driver to the cliff top.

Continue reading “Sonoma county excitement”

Petaluma KOA and San Francisco

We arrived at the Petaluma KOA yesterday evening at 5:30. It was a beautiful drive from Nevada, but I rediscovered how painful driving in California traffic is! The KOA is very nice with lots of trees, level pull-through sites, and it is remarkably quiet. I can’t believe how big the roses are; there are individual blooms as big as my outstretched hand. In general the place is nicely landscaped with lots of flowers in addition to the trees. The sites are quite spacious for a private campground too. It is expensive for us, though not unreasonable for a popular vacation area like this ($55 for Sunday through Thursday, $75 for Friday and Saturday for a water and electric site). We got a discount with our KOA card, and Saturday night was a special fee which made it less expensive. We also used some of our KOA points to reduce the cost.

Today we took a tour to San Francisco. There were 14 of us, a driver, and the tour guide. The guide was informative and the stops nice. We did all the standard stuff – Golden Gate Bridge, Presidio, cable car, Fisherman’s wharf, Golden Gate Park, Fort Point Historic Site, and Chinatown plus just driving some of the wonderful neighborhoods. They picked us up at 9:00 and we got back to the campground just after 6:00. This was worth every penny so we didn’t have to drive (and park) the truck in town. Here are some of the pictures.

Overlooking the city and the bay from the 9th floor of the De Young museum
Mandatory cable car photo
My husband on the cable car
Golden Gate Bridge from Fort Point National Historic Site

We were very lucky in the weather. It was cool and windy, but no fog or rain. I really like San Francisco, but it is still a big city with traffic, congestion, and no parking. I wish I could stay for a week sometime but I doubt it will ever happen. We just like open spaces too much. I always feel closed in when I am in a city. I guess I am just a western girl at heart.

Tomorrow is a wine country tour (driving ourselves), and dinner with an old high school friend.