Vedauwoo and surroundings followed by Douglas and Casper

We ended up staying at Vedauwoo for 10 days, leaving on Monday, 17 July. Fabulous place. Here are some of the highlights.

There is water in some of the creeks. Plus we saw a moose! Largest mammal we saw. Hundreds of pronghorns though.

Wish you could hear it
The biggest mammal we saw

I can not express how beautiful the wildflowers were. I actually became numb to them because they were so abundant and beautiful. It had been a wet summer, and the flowers showed it.

One day we took a short trip to the Ames Monument. It marks the highest point on the Union Pacific Rail line. The line was eventually moved a few miles south, but the monument stands pretty much isolated on a hill of land.

The weekend got rather crazy at Vedauwoo. All the designated sites were filled, and there was a small amount of illegal camping. If anyone knows who this particular Iowa asshole is, please let me know. Notice the “No Camping” sign right in front of his pickup.

We didn’t stay at Vedauwoo the entire time. We took a trip into Fort Collins for a Trader Joe run, and we took a trip into Cheyenne when I found this lovely Bernina 930 for sale! Good price, and it is spotless. I have wanted one of these for a while, but I am cheap. I just kept looking for a good deal, and I eventually found one. The machine has a heel tap feature which takes a complete half stitch, either up or down, plus it always stops with a full stitch up. So far so good, as you can see on my sample.

We also ended up in Laramie a few times, once for groceries and once to dump at the Old Territorial Prison. Nice clean dump station with a recommended $10 fee. Kevin also got an oil and air filter change for the RZR. There are a bunch of shops in the area!

On Monday, 17 July, we left Vedauwoo for Douglas, WY. We needed to do laundry and generally clean up after 10 days boondocking before we went to the Bighorns for another 7-10 days. We are staying at the Fairgrounds. Standard parking lot fairgrounds spot, but only $30 FHU.

Anyone who knows me knows we like finding historic places, and while we were in Douglas, we visited Ft. Fetterman. Not much original really there, but the visitor center had been restored with a nice little museum. I really enjoyed the video they had. The views across the Northern Platte River were amazing. Ft. Fetterman was the last of the Indian forts along the North Platte, and it was situated on a high bluff. You can’t see the river from the bluff anymore because the North Platte was known for wandering. The views are still amazing though.

We visited Casper twice. Once was for dinner and to pick up medication refills; the second was to visit Ft. Caspar. The two spellings are not typos, or at least they aren’t for me. The town was named after the fort, but there was a misspelling in the original documents. Caspar Collins, son of the person Ft. Collins, CO was named for, was killed while stationed here. In those days it was “North Platte Station.”  This fort was reconstructed by the WPA based on drawings Lt. Collins made. It has a really nice museum plus the reconstructed fort components.

One of the interesting things we discovered by visiting the history museums is the intersection of Wyoming, oil and gas development, and the audio book Kevin and I are listening to while driving the motorhome. The book is “Killers of the Flower Moon” about the horrific murders of numerous Osage Indians in Oklahoma in order to inherit their rich oil lease payments. The companies are the same, and the scandals mesh together quite well. Since both of us are Oklahoma born, we were sadly not surprised this portion of Oklahoma history wasn’t taught in schools. Neither was the Tulsa Race Riot, and even more people died there due to greed, envy, and racism.

Senior officer quarters were quite luxurious.

Even the enlisted quarters weren’t bad, though they slept two to a bed. Might have been warmer that way during those long Wyoming winters on that very exposed bluff!

The sutler was the fort store with food, clothing, and miscellaneous supplies that made life a bit more bearable for the soldiers.

One of the primary purposes of the fort was to protect an important bridge across the North Platte used by settlers and prospectors flooding west. The bridge was over 1000’ long, a real feat for frontier builders. It made them a fortune though! Prices were flexible – higher in high water, lower when there were other crossings possible.

One of the alternatives was a ferry established by Brigham Young when the Mormons were on their way to the Salt Lake valley. They had a reconstructed ferry with a sample wagon too.

We leave Douglas tomorrow for a boondock site outside of Buffalo along Highway 16. We have a few places in mind, but we will look at them before we decide where to settle. My oldest son and his family are going to be tent camping in the area, and I am looking forward to seeing all of them.

From Utah to Wyoming

We left Bear Lake on 6 July. We spent the night at Red Desert Rose Campground in Rawlins, WY. Nice enough place, a bit careworn, but they were trying to have grass between most of the sites, and the pull throughs were HUGE so no unhitching. We left fairly early on 7 July to head to a Boondockers Welcome site just into Colorado between Laramie and Wyoming. It didn’t work out. First, the road in was 8 miles of awful washboard (12 miles total from the highway), and secondly, we could not get level no matter what! We tried 3 different locations in his field with every block we owned, and nothing worked. We finally gave up, took the awful road back to the highway, and headed to the Vedauwoo area of the Medicine Bow National Forest only a few miles back west.

I was a bit skeptical we could find a spot on a Friday afternoon, but we scored a truly primo spot! We stayed here before on our way to Arizona in June, but this time we aren’t rushed for time. They have a system I think is the future of dispersed NF and BLM land – identified sites, very well separated and private, and free. We were lucky and got site 4. This is the view out our door.

The scale is hard to imagine. Look carefully at the bottom of the “nose” for a human for scale.

Do you see the human?

Another photo for scale. Those tiny white dots were climbers.

Rocks everywhere

This cubist delight is just to the right of our site. It is huge too.

A cubist delight

On Saturday we decided to take out the UTV. It rained on Friday night, and the area has had a lot of rain on other days. The meadows are amazingly green, and the roads were amazingly muddy.

Mud puddles were frequent

We had planned a circular trip leaving and arriving from our campsite, based on the official Motor Vehicle Use Guide. However a couple of hours in, our published “open” road was marked by a “No motor vehicles” sign. It was obvious a lot of people had ignored the sign and continued, but we didn’t feel comfortable with that. We then just turned back and rode some other dead end trails, just to see the sights. Of course we saw more rocks! I do love rocks.

Yet more rocks on the trail

This was one sight that puzzled me. It was an open pasture, fairly but not completely flat with a number of low embedded rocks in the surface. There were a number of these pipes, some capped and some not, seemingly randomly arranged over maybe 1/2 an acre. Mining? Old foundation? I couldn’t see any other artifacts, just the pipes.

Any ideas?

And of course we have seen flowers. The white ones were smaller than a dime and close to the ground. Indian Paintbrush is the state flower of Wyoming, and it bloomed in profusion along with the other standard flowers we have seen. The yellows were not as common. They are Alpi e Sunflowers, and like other sunflowers, rotate during the day to follow the sun.

Alpine sunflower
Did I mention rocks

Today we decided to take the truck along the Snowy Ridge Scenic Byway. It was a good decision. Beautiful country south east of Laramie. We hit snow line at about 9000’. We topped out just under 10,400’. Hard to breathe when there isn’t any air!

Snowy Range peaks

There were lots of interesting sights along the road, but this observation point was particularly interesting.

Observation point

The views were incredible. This was generally southwest and the next picture was more south. I am pretty sure those snow covered peaks in the second photo are in Rocky Mountain National Park, one of my favorite places.

Hazy in the distance

Note the “watermelon snow.” The pink color is from a bacteria that thrives on the snow and glaciers. And yes, the skies really were that blue!

Looking from the observation point to our parking spot

There were dozens of alpine lakes along the way. Some were ephemeral and dry up in dry years, but some are large. This is one of the large ones right next to the road. It was busy with anglers and hikers.

Alpine lakes were abundant

We ate a late lunch in Walden, CO at River Rock Cafe. Very good food, and great home made peach cobbler. We came back to the motorhome a bit tired, rested, and then enjoyed the late afternoon sitting outside and watching the climbers on the rocks behind our campsite.

Tomorrow, more UTV trails.

Yet more RZR riding in southern Utah

It was a nice day on the trails. We left before 9:00, and we got back a bit after 2:00 – 67 miles. We first drove south to Koosharem, then up a trail along the west side of Mormon Mountain. We crossed UT 24 and headed east along the Paiute Trail. We did take some interesting side loops here and there, but the day was glorious. I am having trouble with the Go Pro battery, so these were all on the iPhone. Be prepared for picture overload!

Not gray rock but a hillside of purple flowers

We saw 8 deer, the first big mammals we have noticed. The RZR is noisy, so we don’t sneak up on things very easily. Besides these three, we also saw a doe and two spotted fawns plus two other solitary deer.

These three posed for us

A d lots and lots of flowers. The best were around 7500’.

Penstemon
Yellow flowered prickly pear
The center of these reminds me of a shooting star
Crepe-like petals but prickly stems

Small ones
I do love these blue/purple ones

A lot of clearing cedar trees had been done to the hillsides. It isn’t done by cutting the trees, but by dragging these huge chains between two tracts/bulldozers. It looks pretty horrid right after, but the work will open up the lane for more native vegetation. The fact that it will increase cattle grazing space is also factored in.

Logging chain
Results

There were some old favorites that showed up.

Wild roses in abundance
Tiny little vinca-like flowers
Roses and a small trumpet shaped flower

At 7000’, the landscape was mostly sage and cedars.

The scenery at 7000’

There were a few surprises like this amazing flower. This was the only one like it I noticed.

Only saw this once

We had lunch at Rex Reservoir. Those trees across the lake? Their trunks are 2-3 feet deep in water!

Rex Reservoir

When we got up to 7500’, the scenery changed significantly. Lots of scrub oaks started showing up, and the Mountain View’s improved. If you blow up the picture below and look carefully,there is still snow!

Snow on those distant peaks
More of the white crepe-like flowers, this time in a clump around Rex Reservoir.

It was the first cloudy day we have had. Ignore the rutted road and look at the lovely sky.

Dramatic clouds

I found only one of this beauty too. An odd cup-like shape.

Another single appearance

More sky drama. It wouldn’t be of as much note but the skies have been pristine blue until late afternoon since we arrived.

Drama in the sky
Snow on those peaks

It was a fabulous trip, but processing this many pictures is time consuming! Just a short drive tomorrow to check out a specific trail, then it will be time to drive into town to get gas.

Southern Utah for a while

We stayed in St. George, Utah just one night on Saturday 24 June. We always stay at the Temple View RV Park, but it is hard to get around their building with the toad. It just isn’t set up for big rigs. The sites are fine though, so we keep coming back. We needed to run the generator for AC pretty much the entire trip since it was still so hot. I was so glad to leave the heat and move to the mountains!

We are staying at the Water Clover RV Park in Burrville, UT, pretty much in the middle of nowhere. The campground is owned by the Koosharem band of Paiutes, and it is on their reservation. Definitely a very basic place that has gravel sites and needs mowing, but it is only $150 for the week with full hookups! Can’t beat that deal. It also is right on a big OHV trail system and near Fish Lake, a big recreation spot. There is one other rig here, but I think they a seasonal since no one has been there since we arrived. Nice view over a small irrigation reservoir.

Sorry for the antenna and dust

We took Monday to wander around the area and get information. I had to go to the ER on Sunday when my reaction to the gnat bites I got more than a week before got really concerning. I was afraid I had an infection, but it was just a terrible immune response. I got some super duty cortisone cream that is making me feel much better. We also went to the Richfield Visitor Center. What a nice pair of women staffing it! One was a UTVer herself, and both knew a lot about the trails and history of the area. We picked up some guide books and maps.

We then took off on a ride with the RZR. We are in a sagebrush meadow area at the start, but there were lots of flowers.

These orange ones are probably the most prevalent at the lower elevations (7000’)
Not many cactus, but this pink one was showy
Lots of purple ones too.

Our trip was on the east side of UT 24. We headed up the mountains and crossed into the valley where Fish Lake is located.

Looking across the sagebrush to the west valley

Some of the trails we took were part of the Paiute Trail, a network of roads and trails widely advertised.

A lot of the trail was decent Forest Service roads

We finally got up to the aspens and lusher meadows. This was over the mountain southeast of our Campgroun.

About 8500-9000’
Still occasional open areas

As we continued higher, we got into the evergreens and skinny trees. They get that way due to the harsh winter conditions. Even this far south, the snow is intense.

9000-10000’
Snow banks in shady spots

We finally encountered a snowball we didn’t want to cross. We are much more cautious when riding by ourselves.

10,400’

We had some dead ends trying to get back to our campsite, but it was an enjoyable day of about 60 miles.

Today we are getting chores done and relaxing. Our bodies feel that many miles in a RZR! Kevin checked a bunch of things on the RZR. He topped off the oil and radiator fluid and just generally checked things out. We have 49 more operational hours before it needs a major service, so this was just checking and cleaning things. I sewed some more. I cut out a bunch of 4” Drunkard’s Path pieces that I really needed to get to, so I did a bunch of those. Well, “bunch” is probably the wrong phrase. These are picky little devils, and they take a LOT of concentration. I did get about 20 done though. It is a good way to spend a lot of time and not get a lot done! They are awfully cute though.

Today’s completions so far

We took a drive into Koosharem to have dinner. Nice little cafes that totally surprised me in such a tiny place! And there were pretty places along a trail head we checked out. It will be on our list of trips while we are here. And of course there were flowers!

Big bed of pink and purple
Closer view

Tomorrow we are taking a ride, so expect more pictures.

Lake Havasu then dispersed camping near Flagstaff then back to Lake Havasu

Odd title I know. We went to DJ’s RV Resort in Lake Havasu to get the RZR set up to carry in the F-150 bed. Kevin had some additions to make to it too like adding a winch, a cargo rack, and some new mirrors. Knowing it might get complicated, a friend in town let him work in his air conditioned garage and use a few big tools he owned that Kevin didn’t bring with us. It took 5-6 days of 3 hours or so a day since they are both retired and worked slowly. He got it all done though! The picture makes the truck seem bigger than it is, but that is just the perspective.

Ready to roll!

While Kevin and Bill were working on the truck and RZR, I went to the local quilt guild “Staycation,” a 3 day retreat in a local community building, 8-4. I didn’t stay that long, but I did get a lot done. I finished the piecing for the scrappy tumbler the night before, and I got it quilted. Still need the binding though.

I got 6 blocks completed of the 9 needed for my Hunter’s Star top at the retreat. Here is the completed top with borders I finished yesterday. I give the credit to Accuquilt for those almost perfect corners and joins! Aren’t they lovely? I felt I was a walking advertisement for Accuquilt since I had so many people come over to see it.

While we were here, we took a drive to Quartzsite where we always stay some in the winter. Lots of changes, but I won’t detail them here. However I saw this adorable line up of little “people”. They really stood out because there were so very few real people in the huge area. It was almost spooky to see it so empty.

We left LHC on Thursday, 15 June, to find a dispersed site in the Coconino National Forest west of  Flagstaff. We wanted to do some riding! We found a great place off Forest Road 171, and enjoyed gorgeous weather and some nice riding. I experimented with my new Go Pro, and I got some great videos. This post was later than I intended because I can’t figure out how to post them to Facebook or YouTube! I keep getting errors. But I decided I wouldn’t wait any longer, so you will get no videos until I can figure out how to get them on YouTube. Loading them here is just too resource intensive, and the uploads over a few seconds long always fail. The forest was lovely. It reminds me a lot of the Black Hills with open forests alternating with prairie meadows. We were at 7200’, so it was in the 30s each morning, warming up to the 70s. We took one long day or 60+ miles, and a couple of days of shorter trips.

We would have stayed longer on the forest, but Kevin had another dental issue from his recent tooth implant. He saw an emergency dentist in Lake Havasu the first time we came through, and it happened again when we were in the forest. He couldn’t find a dentist or oral surgeon within 100 miles that could get him in quickly except back in LHC with the same emergency dental clinic he used the first time. This time the oral surgeon back in Iowa coordinated the care with the dentist here, and we are crossing our fingers it worked. We decided to stay around here for 4 nights and do some more sightseeing plus cleaning and laundry. The dirt from UTV riding is no joke! Plus I need some more fabric!

Kevin’s updates on the new RZR plus our first trip with it

As of last Friday, Kevin had installed a rear view mirror, side mirrors, turn signals and running lights, and a front windshield. He has a rear windshield, lower and upper doors , and a new roof on order. They arrive sometime this week. He also bought a Fire tablet to run the off-road mapping software on, a case for it, and is figuring out the best place to mount it. He’s been busy!

We did go on our first big ride on Saturday. It was a charity ride for some local volunteer organizations in Northeast Iowa, and we started at the Volga River campground in the town of Volga, Iowa. The ride was restricted to 200 rigs, and it closed early last week, amazing to me. The event was advertised on Facebook through some UTV groups, and there were still people who wanted to get in. I have never even heard of something like this, and it was an experience. Cost was $50/rig.

We loaded the rig up with everything we needed on Friday, and we headed to Volga by 8:30 in the morning. We got parked and unloaded the RZR, then headed to the checkin, arriving there about 10:15. We had reserved a sack lunch from a local church (“free-will offering”, and not much!). Next time we will definitely bring our own. Lots of good organization. The parking area was huge and easily handled the crowds of mostly pickups with trailers.

A tiny fraction of the parking

The check in was orderly too, and we were given a numbered tag and got in rows.

Rows and rows of UTVs

We knew we were going to be the little guy, but some of these rigs are as big as cars! Four and six seaters were common, some with full fiberglass doors and roofs with roll down windows. Then there were the true utility rigs that doubled around the farm, a few mud racers, lots of donut maker/racers, and a few like us. I was rather astonished to see people drinking beer and hard liquor at 10:00 am on a Saturday before they were going to drive, but it seemed very acceptable to the crowd. Lots of vaping and cigarettes too. It had been so long since I had seen groups of people smoking that it took me aback.

We got started a few minutes after 11:00, and we had so much fun! It was 30-40 miles with a wide assortment of terrain. A little bit of road (the local fire department and police blocked traffic for us), some cornfields, lots of fallow pastureland with rolling hills, some heavy forest, and a number of stream crossings.

A little bit of roads
Some cornfields (hey, it is Iowa)
And forested hills just past peak color

There were three stops along the way. Lots more drinking. Portable toilets were on a trailer that two trucks pulled to each stop. As we went through some farm fields, we actually had the farmers there to open gates and keep their cattle away. It was definitely a community endeavor. That makes sense since the proceeds were going to the local volunteer EMS folks! Each place we stopped for a break had plenty of room for people to spread out.

A view from our second rest stop

The ride finished at our starting spot about 4:30. We both had big grins on our faces. The ride had been bumpy and rough, but we weren’t all beat up like we would have been in the Jeep. The soft balloon tires and suspension of the RZR were much gentler on our bodies, though we were feeling a bit worse for wear this morning! It wasn’t anything some Tylenol wouldn’t solve though. I am really very happy with the entire purchase, and I am looking forward to using it a lot this winter in Arizona.