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Medora and Theodore Roosevelt National Park

We spent the nights of 21-23 August (Wednesday through Friday) at Medora Campground in Medora, ND. It gave us two full days to see the sights. The campground itself is fair to good. Sites were decently sized, and there was some grass plus lots of trees. In facet there were so many trees we couldn’t get the satellite antenna to track. It was ok since I had a few seasons of “Endeavor” to catch up on. It is the prequel to the Morse series that I originally saw on PBS.

We didn’t do much on Wednesday, but we wandered around the town a bit. There is a state historic site in town, the Chateau de Mores. It was the summer hunting “cabin” of a French Marquis and his wife Medora, the town’s namesake. The Marquis tried raising beef and cold shipping the meat to the east, but lost a huge amount of money doing it. The house is quite fancy for the time period, and it contains a veritable goldmine of original furnishings, both the mundane (utensils and cooking supplies) and the ornate (beds with mosquito netting hangings and a huge piano). The family owned the 22 room house from the 1880s when they built it until they sold it to the state in the 1930s. I didn’t remember to take a picture of the outside, but it was a tall, two story house with big verandas on the very top of the hill.

Mundane items like the grinder are orignals

The parlor is also almost all original with the exception of the wall paper, a copy of the original

Another fun thing was seeing the Colorado Model A club in town!

My second favorite. I think that is a water container in front of the rear wheel.

There were lots to choose from, at least 14

Thursday evening we really played tourist and went to the Pitchfork Steak Fondue. Their claim to fame is spearing the steaks on pitch forks then cooking them. They also had the normal “fixins” at a cowboy-style event.

Steak (notice the pitchfork holes), coleslaw, great beans, potatoe, Texas toast, fruit and brownies. They had some fresh veggies too, but I didn’t get any.

We then went to the “Medora Musical.” I was expecting a play with music, but it was a musical variety show. I was surprised, but not disappointed. Two MCs, one who sang and the other was more a comedian, a nice band, 12 college aged singers, horse riders, and even fireworks at the end. There was also a nationally known comedian just after intermission. He was good, but the spectacle was the musical acts. Lots of costume changes.

Note the horses to the right of the stage

Lots of flag-waving patriotism with a mixture of country, rock, and gospel songs.

Friday we headed to the National Park. We went to the south unit this time (we did the north unit when we were at Lewis and Clark State Park). The scenery was more “badlands” in the north unit, but the south had some great views too.

There were also animals. The bison was walking at the edge of the road, away from the nursery herd. The main attraction of the south unit are the wild horses, and we did see this one band. I also got a hilarious video of a territorial prairie dog. Click on the link to see it. He or she is really getting after a territorial rival!

Rather ratty looking fellow at this time of uear

Umm. Video doesn’t work, so I will work on it later.

In the middle of all of this “touristing”, I also finished a sewing project. It is a washable throw rug made with quilt batting and a jelly roll of fabric (2 1/2” strips). I was quite pleased with it, and it fits fairly well in front of my sink. Hopefully it will keep the carpet there cleaner! It is actually isn’t as oddly shaped as it seems in the picture! I must admit I really like my new sewing machine and the sewing table I bought for it.

Tonight we are staying in a Cabela’s parking lot in Billings, MT. We have decided to head toward Yellowstone instead of Great Falls, so we are hoping to get a Fish and Game campsite north of Gardiner tomorrow. I will let you know how it goes.

Oil and lots of fur trade history

We spent Monday, 19 August, seeing some sites around Williston. Williston itself is a heavily industrialized oil field town in the Bakken oil field area. I grew up in Oklahoma and have been through the Permian Basin in Texas, but I have never seen so much oil development as I did in this area of North Dakota. Most sites had only 2-4 pump jacks, but the largest we saw had 24 pump jacks in three gangs of eight. These were the big ones too, not the little ones seen most frequently in Oklahoma. It was still pretty clean with the rig sites being contained. Of course occasionally I would get a whiff of petroleum due to the numerous gas flares that burned, but it wasn’t as bad as Texas. I am guess it is because the Bakken field was developed more recently with stronger environmental policies. It was pretty amazing.

We first visited the Missouri-Yellowstone Confluence Center. Besides the obligatory Lewis and Clark exhibits, there was also a surprising display about rural electrification and the growth of electric co-ops. It was an entire room, and it was remarkably interesting showing the electric and non-electric versions of all kinds of conveniences such as irons and washing machines. Of course I forgot to take any pictures, but the river was not very close anymore.

We then went to the nearby Fort Buford site with a few rebuilt buildings from post civil war era. We weren’t as interested in that era, so we just looked around a bit. I did take pictures this time though!

We then headed to Fort Union, a much more interesting location to me. It was from the fur trade era, and is a National Historic Site (the two previous sites were ND State Historical Sites). I have never been to a bad NHS, and this one didn’t disappoint either.

It sits on a lovely hill overlooking the Missouri

Might as well post the first information sign for details.

The fort was the most important trading center along the Upper Missouri from 1828 – 1867. They have rebuilt much of the main fort including the palisades and some of the working rooms.

Looking at the gate and wall from the inside.

The crown jewel of the fort was the main building. It had a well documented exterior, and was rebuilt very faithfully to the 1850s view. Fabulous place, though no documentation of the interior was available.

While we were there two men who were retracing the route taken by General Ashley in the early 1820s. They had come the Columbia River drainage across South Pass using horses and mules. They had just arrived in pirogues and bull boats after a trip of hundreds of miles on the Missouri! They were dressed in period clothing, one as a French Canadian trader and one as Indian complete with only a breach cloth and shirt. I wanted to get a picture of them, but I was too shy to bother them. They were coordinating with the NPS about their journey.

We also decided to visit the North Unit of Theodore Roosevelt National Park, about an hour from Fort Union. Gorgeous place.

Obligatory buffalo picture. Notice the tracking color.

It was hazy and I was shooting into the sun.

The Little Missouri carved the badlands of the park.

The colors are muted by the sun angle, but even better in real life

One of the more unique features of this part of the park are these odd cannonball secretions. They are just big circular rocks resulting from some sort of secretion, but no one knows exactly how they were formed.

Some not quite so round, but interesting.

We didn’t get back until late, and we were tired. We decided to just take Tuesday off, relaxing, sewing (me), and bike riding. We also caught up on the mundane chores of laundry and grocery shopping. We arrived Wednesday afternoon at Medora campground, the subject of the next posts.

FMCA rally in Minot, ND

We arrived by 11:00 or so, and we didn’t wait in line much for parking. While the parking crew was getting us ready, I heard them saying they were short volunteers, so Kevin said he’d help out. That turned into three long days! They really did need the help though. FMCA is an organization for RVers, and they are run by volunteers. Yes, there is a fairly small paid staff, but all the heavy lifting is by volunteers. The parking crew had to help more than 1600 RVs (mostly motorhomes) get through crowded interior roads and park in a spot that matched what they had requested at signup – 30 amp electric, 50 amp electric, dry camping (generators allow), handicapped, etc. It was a lot of work, but he seemed to enjoy it.

My volunteer job was driving a golf cart that picked people up and took them wherever they wanted to go in the grounds. There were also trams that went on defined routes, but most people preferred us since we went point to point. Kevin also drove a golf cart when his parking duties were done after the third day.

As for the FMCA rally itself, it was informative, wet, muddy, enjoyable meeting friends again, and the entertainment was quite good. The problem was that the headliner entertainment was in an arena with miserable accoustics! We heard Captain Sullenberger (Miracle on the Hudson) gave an outstanding talk about integrity and leadership. There was no mention of the current president, but one could see that Sully wasn’t a fan. He really demonstrated the best that our military academies produce. Sully for a President! (I wish). Like nearly all membership organizations, FMCA is going through a membership decline. They are trying to address an aging membership by adding some younger entertainers, and those were very good. Mostly they were local country or bluegrass batsman and I liked them all. The headliners were two dance bands playing mostly older music and the Spinners who would have been great fun if not for the lousy sound.

Since we had heard some of the seminars before, I did get a bunch of sewing done. I finished the individual strips for my planned kitchen rug, and it is now ready to be assembled. I hopefully will get that started soon.

We left this morning, and I was ready for something other than 10’ between motorhomes! We found it at Lewis and Clark State Park on Sakakawea Lake, but far up river from our Corps of Engineers spot from just before the river. It is lovely.

Note I didn’t take a picture of the FMCA spot – it was just gravel in a parking lot.

We are heading to Williston tomorrow to do more Lewis and Clark stuff, so more to come then.

Lake Sakakwea, Lewis and Clark, and Mandans

We are spending three nights at the Corps of Engineers campground at Lake Sakakwea, 80-ish miles south of Minot, ND. It is an absolutely gorgeous campground with huge sites, asphalt and concrete sites, lots of grass and trees.

We arrived on Thursday, and went spent time Friday and Saturday seeing historic sites nearby. We started at the North Dakota Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center outside of Washburn, ND. Very, very nice historical presentation and some replicas of outstanding art, both modern and 1800s.

Sculpture in front of the Lewis and Clark Interprative Center

Once we got ourselves oriented, we went to Fort Mandan, a recreation of the fort the expedition stayed in during the winter of 1804\1805. There was a charge for the interpretive tour, but the guide was really, really good.

The fort had had a lot of furnishings to show how they lived.

Eight enlisted men lived in each of these small rooms plus the attic

We then went to the Knife River Indian Villages National Historic Site a few miles away. This is the same group of Indians whose dirt/log buildings we saw recreated at Fort Abraham Lincoln a few days before. This recreated building had a number of furnishings in it and was slightly larger.

The original inhabitants built caches for food both inside and outside the lodges

Historically accurate artifacts were all around

Definitely bigger than the others we saw

It was a foggy, dreary morning. We noticed how many boats were fishing the outlet of the spillway, and we drove down it a little to see.

There was a LOT of water coming over the spillway with 4 big gates open

Today we went back to Washburn for a late breakfast and tried to see the local county museum. Silly us didn’t check the times though, and it wasn’t open. Then we decided to go to the “ big town” of Garrison to get some groceries before heading to the FMCA rally in Minot. We had a fascinating detour through the Audubon National Wildlife Refuge. The building itself was officially closed, but the cleaner let us in. I didn’t want to spend too much time inside, but we did do the Auto Tour. It was gorgeous, and I saw this huge hawk. I am not sure what kind it is, but it was so big I thought it might be a a juvenile eagle. This is a picture I took at as big of a zoom as I possibly could manage.

I will put the name of I find out what it is!

We had pork chops in the sous vide along with potatoes mixed with onions and mushrooms. Lovely. Tomorrow we head to the rally pretty early so we don’t get caught into the line here for the dump station. They only have 2 dumps for the 90 or so campsites here!

Bismarck, ND

We moved yesterday to the Bismarck KOA. Nice place where we are going to stay for two nights before heading to a Corps of Engineers park at Lake Sakakwea (yes, it is really spelled like that). What a surprise! Shady sites which means no satellite, but we get decent OTA channels.

Unusual to have a pull through shady site with full hooks

Today we went to Fort Abraham Lincoln State Park. Great place with lovely views and interesting history. First the scenery along the Missouri River.

The park is set on a small hill overlooking the Missouri. The first settlements known were Mandan. They lived here in a town of up to 1500 people known as Slant. Sadly their numbers were decimated by small pox brought by Comanches in the mid 1700s and the site was abandoned by the time Lewis and Clark arrived in 1805. A few of their earthen lodges have been recreated.

A bit closer via the path from the Visitor Center

I think the thick earth walls would make this a much more comfortable place to live in the hot summers and the cold winters.

The next people to settle were American infantry soldiers who were to protect settlers and rail readers. Not a very intelligent move to send infantry to protect against some of the finest horsemen ever known! Fort McKeen was built in 1872 on a tall site overlooking the river.

One of the reconstructed infantry blockhouses

When the US decided to send cavalry, the fort was moved closer to the river and renamed to Fort Abraham Lincoln. The first commander of the expanded fort was George Custer (until he went to the Little Bighorn). A number of buildings have been reconstructed.

One of the many horse barns. This was the only one reconstructed since the river took the foundations of many of the others

Even the old post cemetery was still there

A distant view showing some barracks and Custer’s house, tucked next to the barracks on the far left

The fort was abandoned in the 1891. As usual it was the CCC who built the park visitor center (a lovely stone building), shelters, and roads. They also built the Ft. McKeen blockhouses and the Mandan village. The other buildings were built by a combination of park employees, volunteers, and the ND National Guard.

Oh, and we went by Scheel’s to buy me a new pair of walking shoes. Woah! Those things are expensive, but hopefully they help me walk more.

Lady slippers, small big river, very old trees, and more fun things

First, I threw away the baby bubble I was sewing. After thinking about it overnight, I decided it had too many errors for me to finish. Sigh. I will use a different pattern next time.

We left Ely on Sunday, driving to the Bemidji KOA. Nice enough place, but quite different than the privacy we had at Fall Lake. Then again, I have full hookups so we are doing laundry! We had dinner at a local bar and grill. I had fried bluegill, and it was great. Kevin’s brisket was so so, but at least the portions were big enough they covered dinner tonight too. We had a busy day driving the Lady Slipper Scenic Byway. It begins about 25 miles from the campground in the Chippewa National Forest, though it starts in the town of Cass Lake. Sadly the little museum in town was closed, but we got a view of the recreated logging camp across the street from the museum (housed in an old railway depot).

The museum was located in the rail depot

We continued into town to the old Forest Service Superintendent’s office, a spectacular log building that I didn’t get a picture of! I did take a picture of the plaque, a very poor second. The building was built by the “boys” at the Rabideau CCC camp that we visited later in the day.

We enjoyed an absolute riot of wildflowers along the route. Here are just a few pictures. Note the dragonfly and bees around the flowers.

There was a restored CCC camp, dubbed the most complete in the US. It got lucky because a few years after the CCC abandoned it, it was leased by a university as a field study site until the mid 70s. It then sat vacant (and vandalized) until the early 2000s when the restoration started. The “boys” at Camp Rabideau planted something like a half million trees in the first 3 years. They also built campgrounds and buildings all over the area.

We also drove over the Mississippi which is much, much smaller this far north!

We took a big detour to “The Lost 40”, a patch of old growth pines now preserved as a state protected area. They were amazing! Look at the video since there is no way I could get a picture showing the entire thing.

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Back at the campground we have discovered all the other motorhomes parked near parked near us are on their way to the FMCA rally too! I will end with a (poor) picture of Paul Bunyan and Babe, a requirement if in Bemidji. Tomorrow we head to the Bismarck KOA a couple of days before on to a COE campground at Lake Sakajawea in North Dakota.

Ely, MN – Canoe capitol of the world

We arrived in Ely after a short 3 hour trip from Askov. Roads were good without much traffic. We were set up in the Forest Service campground at Fall Lake by 1:00. The site is very deep, but the entry road is narrow. Luckily Kevin got us tucked in just right with room for the Jeep up front. The site has 30 amp electric. Water is available at random spigots or when you check in (we came in full), but the dump is in town at the visitor center for a $5 fee.

Lighting was bad, but the shade is lovely

We headed to town for the Blueberry Festival. This is one of Ely’s big activities, and parking was crowded. There are vendors for food (we had a great gyro) and artisans of all types. I ended up buying a lovely silver necklace and matching earrings with a dragonfly design.

We also stopped by Piragis, a local outfitter, to buy a new daypack. Turns out we left mine at home. I won’t complain if that is the only thing we ended up forgetting.

Saturday evening we met friends at a party. Some of these folks I met online 20 plus years ago, so it was nice to catch up. Sunday we had breakfast at Britton’s, an institution. We also went to the local Presbyterian Church, nice! We then went back to the Blueberry Festival. This time the food was Indian fry bread, another yummy. We also saw Pat Surface do two sets. He is a local standout singer/songwriter even though the sets were mostly covers of other artists. Monday we had lunch at Boathouse Brewpub. In keeping with the Blueberry Festival theme, we had nice burgers and blueberry beer which was quite good. we hung around the campground. I also sewed much of the day – a cute little bubble for the new grand baby. The sewing that day went fine, but I am ready to tear my hair out today! I am learning to make buttonholes on the new Viking, and I am fairly frustrated. We will see what I feel like tomorrow! Either I will finish the bubble, or I will throw it in the trash. The odds favor the trash right now.

Tuesday we went to Duluth. Lovely trip, but I didn’t take many pictures. We have been there so many times that it just doesn’t seem necessary.

Wednesday day we had breakfast and chai teas at The Front Porch, a local coffee place. We had a lovely lunch at the new Insulated restaurant. Definitely a nice upscale option. I also did some cooking for friends who came over in the evening – Dutch Oven cobbler with fresh gala apples, flan in the Instant Pot, and two types of dip along with store bought chips. As usual, I made too much! I also had some very interested fauna.

Thursday we got out by 8:00 am and headed to Grand Portage National Monument, a long 150 miles away. The drive was nice though, either through a mixed deciduous forest or along the shore of Lake Superior.

I wish the pictures showed the hillsides better. Besides the green of the forest there were riots of wild flowers – yellow, white, shades of pink.

One of the highlights of the trip was lunch at the historic Naniboujou Lodge. It started out as an exclusive hunting and fishing resort, but now is a public facility. Oh my the colors! They advertise the fireplace as weighing over 200 tons, and it is huge! Oh, and the food was very good, much like it would be in an upscale eatery at a national park – lots of locally sourced items.

The National Monument was pretty good too, and well worth the drive. Native history interspersed with European history, primarily about the fur trade that drove the Grand Portage. I thought I had taken a number of pictures, but I was sadly quite wrong. I would like to spend a lot more time both at the monument and the towns we went through along the shore. Oh well, there is always time for another trip!

Today we again had breakfast and a chai at The Front Porch before I came back to sew. Ugh. I decided to quit for a while and update the blog while deciding to not cut everything up! Hope for a better mood tomorrow.

And we are off!

We baptized lovely little Callyn Rose on Sunday. She was quite well behaved (slept through the entire thing!) and very adorable.

We had a big family dinner at a good restaurant, then went home to finish packing. Monday we went to the Upper Iowa River Resort outside Dorchester, IA. It is a fairly rustic campground in a lovely river valley with the Upper Iowa River forming one of the boundaries of the campground. They have a huge spring fed pond with a sandy beach shore. We reserved two sites, one for the motorhome, and one for our tiny tent trailer where my son in law and grandson slept.

Grandson looked for lots of alternative to going to bed.

Callyn is a happy young lady, and she has learned to stick her tongue out.

As you can probably guess, the campground isn’t exactly “big rig friendly”, but we managed to get settled in ok. Of course no cell service, so we had a lot of family time, and I read a lot of books. The first night folks in the cabin you can see kept waking us up until 2:30 am! I complained, and they must have been talked to, because the campground was great the rest of the time. This is the time of year Iowa is at its very greenest, and it was lovely.

The kids went home on Thursday evening, and we left Friday morning. We are spending the night at Countryside Campground outside Askov, MN not far off I-35. I definitely don’t recommend the place. Tons of loud family groups, but that is almost expected in campgrounds with a huge pool and a bar. The problem is the sites are very poorly built with the gravel being not providing even a single layer of solid surface. The first site we tried to get level 3 times, but the place was so soft that we sunk in each time, triggering the “excessive slope” warning. We moved to another site, and even then had to face forward instead of backing in as we should have. It was just too unlevel, even with multiple blocks under the tires and levelers. We have a lot more adjustability in leveling the front of the coach than the back. Oh well, it is just one night, and we are getting the laundry all done!

Tomorrow we head for Ely, MN and our campsite on Fall Lake for a week.

Down to the wire for our upcoming trip

The weather has been so horribly hot and humid, I have been spending a lot of time in my lovely, cool basement. Nothing like finishing things at the last minute! I finally got my granddaughter’s baptism gown completed, and I am quite pleased with it.

The bottom of the gown showing the silk ribbon through the beading

The slip is pink broadcloth, the dress is Imperial batiste, and the bonnet is Nelona batiste. The bonnet I finished a few years back in an heirloom sewing class, and this is the first girl born since then. Ribbons are used to tie the sleeves and the back, very traditional. I got it done 8 days before the baptism!

Next big project was finishing the quilt we will be using in the motorhome. I had finished the basic top at 72×72, all batiks in browns, blues, greens, and golds. However the bed is 72×80, plus it needed a drop to come down the side of the mattress. I decided to add an extra row of 6” blocks plus a 3” border to give the correct length while 3 sides got a 3” border in a solid color, a 6” border in a coordinating batik, and then another 3” border in the solid. I also ran to the local quilt shop to look for the solid color border fabric and the quilt backing. Luckily I found fabrics that will work since I am running out of time! I finished adding the borders, and Kevin helped me pin baste the top, wool batting, and backing together. I am now quilting it with a meander in the main quilt. I will decide how to quilt the borders later. I need to get all the quilting done on my quilting machine at home, though I could finish the binding in the motorhome if I need to.

Don’t you just love the colors? This is the biggest quilt I have ever done, but it is going well so far. I am using a greenish brown 50 weight thread for the top and a similar (but not identical) greenish brown for the back. The back is a brown to cream shaded fabric. Since the fabrics are batiks, I am using a size 16 needle, and everything is going much better than I expected. I love the look of batiks, but they can be a bear to quilt because they are so tightly woven.

Oh, and a Kevin was a darling and bought dozens of stackable plastic totes to use instead of the horrid collection of cardboard boxes my stuff had been in. He even packed them up while I was sewing. We also rearranged the entire sewing area to take advantage of the electrical outlets we had installed in April. Lovely! I can reach all the outlets without crawling on the floor or moving furniture now.

I also got to the allergist today for my new immunotherapy drops. I am allergic to corn pollen, and it is July in Iowa, meaning I am on every allergy medicine possible without using an inhaler or steroids! I take the generic equivalent of Flonase, Singulair, and Zyrtec every day right now. I have a step down pack of steroids the doctor gave me for backup if those aren’t enough. The drops take the place of the old allergy shots, so maybe in 2-3 years I will be really better.

Friday we are making a major shopping trip to Stringtown Grocery near Kalona to stock up on seasonings and some dried veggies. We will be packing the motorhome on Saturday, and my granddaughter’s baptism is Sunday. Monday we take off. I better go back to quilting!

More sewing and lots of doctors

Sadly we didn’t get all the business handled in Stillwater before we needed to leave. We still have some mineral rights to transfer into our trust, but the attorney did get the land itself transferred. We did have time to go to Sand Spring, OK to a lovely little heirloom sewing shop, Delicate Stitches. I found some more lace, entredeux, and a gorgeous Swiss embroidery I decided to use for the edge of the baptism gown. We left Stillwater a Friday morning, and we spent the night at Clinton Lake again. Lovely place!

See how big the site is? Long enough to easily park the Jeep behind us too.

Then it was back to wet, wet Iowa. I sewed quite a bit. I decided to sew the skirt next because of that beautiful Swiss embroidery. Heirloom sewing isn’t hard, but it is picky and slow. I did finish the skirt lace work though. I made a slip in bright pink to shadow through the fine batiste and the laces.

Isn’t that edging gorgeous? It is about 6” wide. The entire skirt panel is about 55” wide by 30” long. I will need to trim the width just a bit to even things up, but it will be a very full gathered skirt for the gown.

I stopped by my daughter’s house to measure the baby against the pattern pieces for the bodice. I think I will make the bodice about 1” wider, and I was also able to figure out what size of placket to use so it can fit over her head easily (3” if you are curious). I will start on the bodice tomorrow. The lacework will be pretty simple, just 3 rows of vertical lace. Then I can start the real construction.

I did my allergy testing today in Cedar Rapids. It turns out I am allergic to corn and dust. Not a good combination in Iowa! I will be starting immunotherapy sublingual drops in a couple of weeks. I will need to do that for a number of years, but it should help. I am also going to be on Flonase, Singulair, and Zyrtec, or at least their generic equivalents. The doctor also gave me a Rx for a steroid step down pack if I do come down with another dreadful sinus infection. Hopefully I can keep it under control. I am so tired of getting these sinus infections two or three times a year.

Oh, and I have become addicted to streaming BritBox and Acorn TV. All my favorite British, Canadian, and Australian shows seem to be available. I will listen to them on the iPad while sewing. And my new little sewing machine, a Viking Opal 650, is sewing all this like a champ!